Recognizing Cargo Pockets

On a common six-pocket pair, one cargo pocket sits on each thigh, alongside two hip pockets and two back pockets. Some designs add further storage pockets near the knees or calves.

Stitching runs around the sides and bottom of each cargo pocket on the surface of the leg. Its opening usually sits at the top, often beneath a flap held in place with buttons, snaps or hook-and-loop strips. Zippers also appear at cargo-pocket openings. A flat patch pocket lies close to the trousers, with its edges and flap forming a visible outline. Folds give an expandable pocket its depth. A center pleat opens across the pocket face as it fills; bellows pockets have folds along the sides or bottom that open around gloves or a folded map. The filled pocket projects from the leg, adding volume at its position on the thigh.

A phone adds weight to the panel and changes how the surrounding fabric hangs. An opening placed high on the thigh remains accessible from the side, above the main knee bend.

Their Military Background

A Canadian-made pair of battledress trousers dated June 1943 in the Imperial War Museums collection carries a map pocket on the upper left leg and a smaller field-dressing pocket on the upper right, below the waistband. The pockets provided places for specific items of military equipment. By the late 1990s, cargo pants had become familiar casual clothing. Olive and khaki colors, roomy legs and flapped pockets carried their military references into everyday wardrobes. Fashion versions developed shaped waists and narrower lower legs. Vogue's 2014 coverage of Gwen Stefani records a tapered pair worn with a fitted top and sandals.

The Shape and Fit of Cargo Pants

The waist measurement, rise and room through the seat determine where the trousers rest on the body. A high-rise waistband sits near the natural waist, showing the full leg line beneath a waist-length top. Low-rise cargos rest farther down on the hips, with the lower waistband visible beneath a short T-shirt.

Belt loops allow adjustment with a belt around a fixed waistband. Elasticated waists expand and gather; drawstrings tighten the opening.

Baggy tapered cargos have generous room through the seat and upper thighs, then draw inward toward the ankles. The thigh pockets sit above a smaller opening over the shoe. With a straight cut, that room continues down the leg at a fairly even width below the knee, falling over sneakers or boots. Wide-leg cargos carry more fullness through the lower leg, incorporating the pocket panels into a broad trouser shape. On a full-length pair, the hems fall over the shoes. Slim cargos sit close through the seat and legs, often using stretch fabric for movement, with shallower pockets scaled to the narrower leg.

Sitting draws fabric across the seat and upper thighs and bends the trouser legs at the knees. Room in these areas allows the cloth to follow the movement. Some outdoor and workwear cargos have a gusset, an extra fabric panel at the crotch that adds space where the legs join. Knee darts or shaped seams build a bend into the trouser leg.

Fabrics, Color and Surface Detail

Squared pocket corners and broad folds around the knees give substantial cotton cargos their workwear appearance. Up close, cotton twill shows a diagonal weave, and plain-weave canvas gives the pocket panels body. Raised layers of rigid denim stand out around the thigh pockets; washing and wear gradually trace those seams in faded lines. With softer cloth, the folds narrow as loose trousers move. Lightweight nylon gathers finely around drawstrings and elastic, collecting above a cinched hem at the ankle and rounding out the lower leg. Light catches the smooth surface of a wide satin hem as it moves, with the pockets draping against the legs.

On black fabric, stitching and shadow pick out the pocket edges. Layered seams and folds show clearly in cream and pale gray. Camouflage covers the leg panels and flaps with an irregular print.

Ripstop has a reinforcement grid woven through the fabric. Carhartt's ripstop cargo trousers use a 59% cotton, 39% polyester and 2% spandex blend. Snaps fasten their large thigh pockets. Ripstop and satin name fabric constructions used with several fiber compositions. The composition label identifies the fibers and the percentage of any stretch fiber such as spandex.

Cargo Jeans, Joggers and Related Names

Utility pants is a broad clothing label covering practical pockets, reinforced areas and adjustable details. Cargo pants commonly sit within that group. Carpenter pants are associated with narrow tool pockets and a hammer loop. The name combat trousers is frequently used for military-style pants, including traditional roomy cargo designs.

Cargo jeans combine denim with the extra leg pockets. Cargo joggers carry the leg pockets on a jogger cut, with elastic cuffs commonly gathering the fabric into folds above the ankles. Cargo shorts use the same pocket construction on shorter legs. The loose, lightweight shape of parachute pants also lends itself to cargo pockets, with drawstrings often fitted at the waist or hems. Jordan's Flight Chicago parachute pants use nylon fabric, a drawstring waist, adjustable hems and cargo pockets. This combination is often called parachute cargo pants.

Wearing Cargo Pants

White low-top sneakers sit under olive straight-leg cotton cargos, with a small fold resting over the front of each sneaker collar. At this length, the hems leave the sides of the sneakers visible. A navy-and-cream striped T-shirt ends at the upper hip beneath an open faded-denim jacket, its navy stripes picking up the blue of the outer layer. The thigh pockets show below the shirt, their corners holding a defined outline in the firm cotton. A tan canvas shoulder bag rests against the jacket at the hip.

For evening, tuck a fitted cream ribbed tank into black satin cargos. A visible waistband and long, fluid legs lead down to narrow-strap heeled sandals, their front straps showing beneath the moving hems. A small black shoulder bag sits close under the arm, with a silver bracelet at the wrist.